Eloise Eason

There is something slightly rebellious about cooking fried chicken in February. Outside, Hamilton is covered in snow and salted sidewalks, with bare trees and cold, gusty winds. But inside, a pot of hot oil snaps and pops as batter crisps into a deep, golden crust. It smells like mid-July. Even as winter lingers outside the window, the salty and warm air brings a hint of summer.

This week, we are making fried chicken – not because it is seasonal, but because it isn’t. The quintessential summer food belongs on wooden picnic tables covered with red tablecloths. Its taste recalls long summer nights, when the sun never seems to set, fireflies flicker and the heat makes even a glass of lemonade sweat. With the first bite of that crispy crust, still hot from the pan, it all comes together.

This recipe is special because it is one of my grandma’s, the first she taught me. Luckily, it is simple and has no secrets, although I occasionally call her to jog my memory on the not-so-exact measurements. The dish is far from an exact science and quite messy, so expect sticky, flour-coated fingers. But hey, I think that is the best part. 

I love to pair the fried chicken with brown butter cornbread, a salad of summer produce and, of course, mac and cheese. It is also just as delicious on its own. Do not be fooled by the simple ingredients. 

There is a reason fried chicken is considered a Southern comfort food. It demands to be passed around a table full of conversation and laughter. Just because it is not summer does not mean friends cannot gather around a table to share a meal that recalls it. While food can’t change the temperature, I hope you all can make do with summer on your plates until May. 

Buttermilk Fried Chicken Tenders 

(serves a crowd — about 12-15)

Ingredients: 

• 3-4 lbs of chicken tenders (about 25)
• 1 quart of buttermilk (or enough to fully cover chicken)
• 2 cups of all-purpose flour 
• 1 tablespoon of kosher salt 
• 1 tablespoon of black pepper 
• Canola oil, for frying (2-3 inches deep in pot) 
• Extra salt, for finishing 

Marinate the Chicken: 

1. Rinse chicken tenders, then pat them completely dry. 
2. Place chicken in a large bowl. 
3. Pour buttermilk over the chicken, coating it fully. 
4. Cover and refrigerate for 24 hours (best); however, any amount of time will do. 

Prepare the Dredge 

1. In a bowl or shallow dish, combine: 
   1. 2 cups flour 
   2. 1 tablespoon salt 
   3. 1 tablespoon pepper 
2. Mix well. 

Heat the Oil

1. Pour 2-3 inches of canola oil into a heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven. 
2. Heat oil to 350 degrees Fahrenheit (I suggest keeping a thermometer attached to the side of the pan so the temperature can be easily measured throughout the process). 
3. Maintain this temperature as well as you can between batches. 

Dredge and Fry

1. Remove chicken, one at a time, from buttermilk, letting excess drip off. 
2. Dredge in the flour mixture, pressing lightly so that the flour sticks. 
3. Fry 4-5 pieces at a time.
4. Cook for 5-7 minutes, until deep golden brown. 
5. Check one piece around 5 minutes, either by cutting into it or checking if its internal temp is 165 degrees Fahrenheit. 

Drain and Season 

1. Remove chicken from fryer and let oil drain on paper towels. 
2. Immediately season chicken with salt and pepper. 
3. Place all finished chicken in a serving platter of your choosing and serve. 

Notes: If you run out of flour, just make another batch. Luckily, the ingredients are pretty easy to double or half. I usually make a double batch in the beginning, just in case.